Bouldering
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Do you like the new bouldering cave rules?
Re: Bouldering
Thanks for listening Bela... We appreciate it and this this will be running smooth in due time

Rufio- Number of posts: 58
Age: 22
Location: Wheaton, IL
Years In It: 1.5 Years?
Most Memorable Send: The Hobbit V5- Rocktown
Favorite Crag to Climb At...: Horse Pens 40 or Rocktown
Climbing Style of Choice...: At this point Im down for anything
Routes or Boulders?: HAH BOULDERS!
Favorite Crag Food: Bagel with honey
Home Gym: VE and my home wall
Registration date: 2008-02-01

Re: Bouldering
i like the idea of cyclcling the problems out like routes

Xerxes- Number of posts: 45
Age: 100
Years In It: Just Started
Most Memorable Send: Onsighting Appalation Springs 5.13a at the red
Favorite Crag to Climb At...: The Red
Climbing Style of Choice...: Levitation
Routes or Boulders?: Neither
Favorite Crag Food: Filet Mignon
Registration date: 2008-01-16
The cave
I'm glad that you responded to our concerns Bela. I agree that the tape should br limited to the few who boulder. I also think that no one should set alone, that means your problem should be ran before it is taped. The main problems i have with the system is the no double taped holds and the grading system. The cave is far to small to have the holds not to be doubled taped. I do agree that there should be some sort of grading system, but it just shouldn't be just raw grades, considering all of us have different styles, it is hard to pin point an exact grade. It would a lot easier if the grading system was more of a range the an exact grade. Maybe V0-V2, V3-V5, and V6+. There some other problems that other people have. I think the best way to deal with this problem is to have a sit-down with all or most of the bouldering community at V.E to discuss the situation and tweak the new rules so the benefit everybody. (If you have any questions post or pull me out at the gym)
Thanks for listing , Bill
Thanks for listing , Bill

Bill Toth- Number of posts: 7
Age: 19
Location: Elmhurst IL
Years In It: ?
Most Memorable Send: Red arrow HP40
Favorite Crag to Climb At...: HP40
Climbing Style of Choice...: powerful big moves
Routes or Boulders?: Boulders
Favorite Crag Food: Anything good
Home Gym: VE
Registration date: 2008-02-29
Re: Bouldering
Alex J. wrote:i like the idea of cyclcling the problems out like routes
Totally agree with this idea as well. It'll keep us consistently moving things around, rather than getting bored with the same movements albeit it being on the other end of the cave.
With the one tape per hold rule (in order to rotate problems out easily) I feel that larger features, in Cheech's words "dead zones" should be able to be part of multiple routes if necessary. The same should go with feet, more specifically foot jibs.
My final order of business is the way its rated, color is a quick identifier for people that normally don't climb in the cave. But in the world of rating and sandbagging and over rating (i know my V0 and V1 seem very overrated I can agree in some areas, but im going off of the multiple types of setting i have encountered in other gyms I've been to, illinois gyms and out of state gyms and factoring in my setting style i have in my garage) Everyone has their own style, its apparent in problems and in routes in the gym. I think a Easy, Medium, Hard, way of identification is the best way as a few have said before. I feel that beginning and moderate boulderers would be chasing the grade within the color system, and like justin said it's not what its about. Not to mention it would widen the spectrum and factor in each individual setters style in terms of difficulty.
We can work all of this out to make it pretty favorable in everyones mind. We all have good ideas and good intentions. I'm with Toth, lets all sit down and talk about it, we would get all on the same page and get things done a lot faster.

John Cartozian- Number of posts: 22
Age: 22
Location: Arlington Heights, IL
Years In It: 1.6
Most Memorable Send: Fuzzy Undercling, 5.11b
Favorite Crag to Climb At...: Red River Gorge
Climbing Style of Choice...: Going Up.
Routes or Boulders?: At the moment, routes.
Favorite Crag Food: Goldfish Crackers and Beef Jerky
Home Gym: Vee Eee
Registration date: 2008-02-01
Re: Bouldering
I hope this bouldering thing works out i really think i talk session would sort things out alot faster

Bill Toth- Number of posts: 7
Age: 19
Location: Elmhurst IL
Years In It: ?
Most Memorable Send: Red arrow HP40
Favorite Crag to Climb At...: HP40
Climbing Style of Choice...: powerful big moves
Routes or Boulders?: Boulders
Favorite Crag Food: Anything good
Home Gym: VE
Registration date: 2008-02-29
Re: Bouldering
after a few weaks with the new cave only 1 0r 2 new routes have been put up. (as opposed to like 4-5 in a weak with the old cave) The idea of having peolpe go and get holds if they want to put something up is not praticall. Boulders like myself dont go to ve to spend there 3 hours getting and putting up holds. They go to climb. Routesetters get paid to spend there time putting up routes not boulderars. The old way where a bunch of holds got put up and then you set around them was better because it didnt require you spend all your time everytime you went into the climbing gym to put up a route, all you had to do was to put up tape. the rating system and the list can stay(list=dont make it so strict let everyone have a chance to try and set whoknows, maybe they cant climb well but they can set wonderfully) but reconsider the not filling the cave
Thanks
Thanks

Xerxes- Number of posts: 45
Age: 100
Years In It: Just Started
Most Memorable Send: Onsighting Appalation Springs 5.13a at the red
Favorite Crag to Climb At...: The Red
Climbing Style of Choice...: Levitation
Routes or Boulders?: Neither
Favorite Crag Food: Filet Mignon
Registration date: 2008-01-16
Re: Bouldering

But if you dont feel the same way....


MethodMan- Number of posts: 26
Most Memorable Send: one time i climbed this orange route with out grab'n the clips!
Favorite Crag to Climb At...: GYM!
Climbing Style of Choice...: DYNO!...with the dyno squad of course
Registration date: 2008-03-07
Re: Bouldering
I don't know how anyone else feels, but I'm not a big fan of having to 'Set' our own boulder problems in the gym. At first I thought this was a good idea and we would get some quality problems going down in the cave. And I have to say that I'm cool with most of the other rules down there. But as Alex pointed out we our spending all of our so called climbing time picking out holds and trying to set the perfect problem. I thikn if we went back to the old system of flooding the wall and adding a few strategic easy areas that more would be done in the cave more often.
I'm only bring this up because we all want to climb when we are there on a daily basis. Is it fair that people who boulder are being forced to make their own problems? Do rope climbers have to take the time to set their routes on a daily or even weekly basis? I think not! Bela, if your reading this before I get a chance to talk to you I'm sorry. I know this isn't the best place for me to be talking about the subject, but something needed to be said.
I'm only bring this up because we all want to climb when we are there on a daily basis. Is it fair that people who boulder are being forced to make their own problems? Do rope climbers have to take the time to set their routes on a daily or even weekly basis? I think not! Bela, if your reading this before I get a chance to talk to you I'm sorry. I know this isn't the best place for me to be talking about the subject, but something needed to be said.
grizzly adams- Number of posts: 40
Age: 30
Location: A-town
Years In It: not long enough
Most Memorable Send: Mulletino, at night in the rain. AWESOME!
Favorite Crag to Climb At...: for proximity, Dodge, otherwise the entire dirty south
Climbing Style of Choice...: powerful with big moves, maybe a heel hook here and there, and of course a requisite toe hook.
Routes or Boulders?: boulders
Favorite Crag Food: PBJ or subway 'five, five dollar footlong'
Home Gym: working on it
Registration date: 2008-03-14

Xerxes- Number of posts: 45
Age: 100
Years In It: Just Started
Most Memorable Send: Onsighting Appalation Springs 5.13a at the red
Favorite Crag to Climb At...: The Red
Climbing Style of Choice...: Levitation
Routes or Boulders?: Neither
Favorite Crag Food: Filet Mignon
Registration date: 2008-01-16
Re: Bouldering
i think what alex means here is amen, not "ahhhh men". Or maybe he loves men? hahaha
Last edited by MethodMan on Thu Apr 24, 2008 2:27 pm; edited 1 time in total

MethodMan- Number of posts: 26
Most Memorable Send: one time i climbed this orange route with out grab'n the clips!
Favorite Crag to Climb At...: GYM!
Climbing Style of Choice...: DYNO!...with the dyno squad of course
Registration date: 2008-03-07
Re: Bouldering
i vote for the second.

Evan Martin- Admin
- Number of posts: 35
Age: 20
Location: Woodridge, IL
Years In It: About 1 Year
Most Memorable Send: Splinter Faction (5.11b) onsight just outside of Battle Axe Tower at Jackson Falls while it was raining.
Favorite Crag to Climb At...: Red Rocks Nevada... Only real good place ive been to. I should get out more often.
Climbing Style of Choice...: Smear, Stem, Reach, Rest, Repeat!
Routes or Boulders?: Routes, until i grow some muscles...
Favorite Crag Food: Teriyaki Jerky? hmmm... Black Cherry Almond Cliff Bars.... mmmm
Home Gym: VE
Registration date: 2008-01-15

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